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Author Topic: Super Glue Finishing?  (Read 1419 times)
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wnelson aka. dedox
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« on: March 14, 2016, 07:10:43 PM »

I was looking up ways to get a high polish on a handle other than buffing it and I came across this: http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/408410/post/422722/

In the sixth comment down a guy says it's possible to get a high-polish on a blade with Super Glue and sanding, so I was wondering if any of you have tried this or even heard of it?

I think the reason for using Super Glue instead of buffing is because the shine on the handle will not go away if you wash it, but a buffed finish will.

   

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John Silveira
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« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2016, 12:42:32 AM »

i've heard of it -
i've also seen bamboo rod makers use it for coating the reel seats on their custom rods. However they chuck the wood reel seats up in a lathe and give the wood a final sanding with 1500 grit for example - then put a few drops of super glue on a rag on their finger tips and while spinning in the lathe rub the glue on and it sorta buffs itself up into a high gloss.

other than that , you're on your own.  i've done alot of finish work with variety of paints - such as cars - custom paint motorcycles etc etc - but putting superglue on the handle of knives might be tricky
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Ed Fowler
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« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2016, 09:50:37 AM »

One maker tried super glue on sheep horn and after a few months it peeled.

What the heck, try it and see. All super glue is not the same so some may work others not.
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wnelson aka. dedox
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« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2016, 12:02:21 PM »

I'm working on a Nakiri kitchen knife, so I was thinking of trying the Super Glue finish on it.

Thanks for the replies, guys!
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Joe Calton
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« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2016, 06:46:49 AM »

I did a super glue finish once that I remember, on one of my first neckers, which was the necker that convinced me that neckers should be as light as possible, as this one weighs a ton. but I did carry it for a few months, and the super glue finish is still on it and hasn't peeled or worn away that I can tell.

the reason I did the superglue finish wasn't so much to get the wood all nice and shiny, but because the piece of burl that I used wasn't completely dry, and had quite a few little voids in it. so after I shaped and sanded the handle down to about 600-800 grit, I started filling voids with some of the sand and superglue. well the glue got all over the place and looked horrible, so I just put the glue over the whole handle to even it out.

the handle is way too smooth for what I like now, and especially too smooth for a working kitchen knife. and I remember that it got really slick when I was cleaning some trout that I caught the last time I used it. the wood also continued to dry even with the glue, and now there are little cracks all over the handle.

I really have gone down in the grits that I like to finish handles out to since that knife, and rarely go over 400 grit now. somewhere between 200-400 grit is where I like a good working knife now, unless its a rough use knife, and there I even like 120 grit. keep the lines of the sanding with the grain and it looks nice, and feels smooth, but not too smooth to hang on to. for kitchen knives, I mostly just dip them in food grade mineral oil then wipe them down and let them air dry over a few days. the mineral oil floats the sanding dust out of the pores of the wood and makes them look nice, you don't have to worry so much about the oil making someone sick if it rubs off on their hands, and most folks that enjoy custom knives will have some on use on their wood cutting blocks. you can recoat it at any time without needing to sand off the old stuff first, which make maintenance for the customer easy also.

but its easy to test out kitchen knife handle finishes. make a tester with the handle and finish that you want, then put it in your kitchen for a few or 12 months to see how it holds up. cook as much as you can with it. and see especially how well it works when you are cleaning fish, or cutting raw chickens. chickens really tell you how your handles work. when working them up, grab a handful of chicken fat with your knife hand, and then see how well you can hang on to your knife handle and control the blade. you can also speed things up with the finish by sticking the knife in the dishwasher for a few months to see how well it wears. 2 months in the dishwasher probably equals 10 years of normal use and will really point out things you need to work on.
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wnelson aka. dedox
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« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2016, 08:07:45 AM »

So would a finish like the finish on these Rader blades not be good for kitchen use since they're so smooth?

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Ed Fowler
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« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2016, 12:15:42 PM »

You cannot tell by looking, all I can say is try various treatments and choose what you like best. By trying different methods and experimenting on your own you will know from your own experience and be able to explain why and what for to your clients.

Note Joe's experiment with the mineral oil and dishwasher, he knows absolutely what worked and has the experience to back it up.  This is what the HEPK is all about.

Good question, thanks!
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Joe Calton
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« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2016, 04:41:46 PM »

I have no idea whether or not those are too smooth, I cant touch them through the screen. they are gorgeous though!

you would have to decide for yourself what grit finish that you like on a working kitchen knife. which is why I suggested making yourself one, and trying it out with your hands covered in chicken fat. veg or olive oil works good also to test your handles out.

kitchen knife handles can be a bit deceiving. on one hand, you are likely to be using a kitchen knife in a pretty controlled environment. as in a kitchen. where it is normally warm, and you are on solid footing, using the knife on a controlled surface. compare that to a hunting or outdoor working knife where you may be very cold and shivering, cutting on the ground, or overhead, working on a sidehill covered in loose shale with a snowstorm blowing in.

but on the other hand...... imagine cooking dinner..... you should have had it in the pot an hour ago, the kids are screaming, the dog wants out, the timer on another dish just went off. and you didn't sleep well the night before. little johnny decides that the moment you have your hands full of that whole chicken that you are quartering up to fry is a great time to run his Tonka truck across the counter while you are working. and all of a sudden that nice warm "controlled" environment isn't so controlled anymore. these are times where you would be very glad that you had tested your kitchen knife handles as best as you could have :}
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Daniel Rohde (D-Vision)
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« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2016, 05:40:15 AM »

There are several ways to get grip with a knife, or is texture and the other one is shape. So a higher polish but more contoured handle(Like Eds) might have more control that a simple shape and rough finish. That's another reason why each maker should test because there are often little variables that affect your style of knife.

BTW Micheal Raders handles are oil finished not Superglue if you were wondering....
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Will
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« Reply #9 on: April 09, 2016, 04:58:49 AM »

I tried the superglue finish a few years ago.  It's great for a presentation piece, provided the handle material isn't too oily.  For a working knife that sees any use at all it starts looking like it's got leprosy real quick, the superglue is hard and chips and peels in use.  Your better off with stabilized or oil finished wood, or natural horn and wax.
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