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Author Topic: Simple hunter  (Read 2593 times)
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Will
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« on: April 10, 2013, 02:24:52 AM »

Just finished this a couple of days ago, still need to finish the sheath.  It was one of a couple of test blades I forged out of an order of 1084 I got from Aldo. I don't normally make knives from 1084, but wanted to test out the steel I was using in damascus.  This one didn't get bent and broken, and is not a normal pattern for me, but just playing around in the shop.  It sat in the shop for over a year before finally deciding to finish it.  The handle is from stabilized white oak, got a few bug holes, but there filled with epoxy and adds character.


   

« Last Edit: April 10, 2013, 02:27:44 AM by Will » Logged

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wnelson aka. dedox
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« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2013, 02:40:00 AM »

looks good Cheesy
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Daniel Rohde (D-Vision)
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« Reply #2 on: April 10, 2013, 01:39:40 PM »

looks nice! I like the handle looks comfortable.
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mreich
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« Reply #3 on: April 10, 2013, 03:13:57 PM »

Super nice looking knife, Will!

I like the clean plunge line that matches the angle of the hilt. Looks great!
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Dennis Mashburn
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« Reply #4 on: April 10, 2013, 03:47:45 PM »

That is a real nice clean looking knife!

How does it cut?  I have a little 1084 I have been playing around with.  Only made 2 blades so far with it though.
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Daniel Rohde (D-Vision)
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« Reply #5 on: April 10, 2013, 04:39:31 PM »

again nice knife I am really like looking at it I'm kind of addicted to it vary nice!
I had a few question though:
how heavy is it?
how thick is the brass?
how long is the blade?
Thanks for sharing!
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Will
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« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2013, 05:41:47 PM »

Thanks, it cuts well for 1084, though nowhere near what well cared for 52100 will do.  It is a simple high carbon steel that was used for years and makes a good knife, if not a high endurance knife.  One of the good things is it finishes easy, and is easy to put a fine edge on and re sharpen.  My grandfather or someone else of that age and time period would appreciate the steel.  I don't really plan on making anymore from 1084, it's not that much more trouble to forge from 52100 or 5160, but then I didn't plan on making this one.  If I was going to pursue more 1084 I'd want to work from thicker stock.  This was from 1/4" stock, not much room to forge down, thicker would lend itself to more possibilities.

The brass guard is 1/2" thick, actually a little under as it was 1/2" stock.

Blade is 4 7/8", 9 1/2" long overall, blade is a hair over 3/16" at the guard and tapers to the tip.  I haven't weighed it, but it's pretty light and balances about midway on the guard.
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Dennis Mashburn
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« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2013, 06:28:02 PM »

Thanks Will, good info.

I don't get near the performance from 1084 as I do 52100 either and from what I know I don't guess it should be expected.  However I am still learning and am not yet able to get all either steel can offer, but I am improving.
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Will
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« Reply #8 on: April 10, 2013, 10:15:18 PM »

I'm in the same boat, I know I'm not getting the max out of 52100, but I keep trying to improve.

As for 1084, it's a good steel, and the average user down here in the south wouldn't know the difference, it just won't go as far as some other higher alloy steels.  I do try and educate them, but a lot of them I have to explain that a 30$ walmart knife isn't high performance.  There is something to be said for the simple steels though, if nothing else they will work and work well, a lot of people know what to expect from them, and they've done the job for a long time. 

What I find down here in the humid south is that unless your real careful the edge will rust just enough to dull a knife, then it doesn't make much difference what steel it is unless it's stainless.  And while there's a still quite a few who know how to use and maintain a carbon blade, there getting few and far between nowdays, at least in this part of the country.
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mreich
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« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2013, 12:05:39 AM »

Rust will magnify itself at the weakest link- the fine edge. See it all the time. With steel prone to pitting like M2, I've seen unbelievable corrosion of an edge.

Will, what is the cloudy portion along the spine?

How do you get such a crisp, straight transition? 
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Will
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« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2013, 12:49:17 AM »

Just a simple edge quench, the cloudy portion is the un-hardned area.  Unless your talking about my logo?  It's etched in, but looks blurry in the photo.
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Dennis Mashburn
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« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2013, 01:57:24 PM »

I know what you guys are talking about on the rust.  I did live in Texas and rust was not much of a problem.  I now live in MS and some days you can see rust from right before your eyes. 

I have experience the edge rusting also.  Sharpen a knife test it just a bit to ensure its sharp.  Next time you go to use it, not as sharp.
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"Saying guns kill people is like saying pencils cause mis spelled words."
                                                         Larry the Cable Guy
It's hard to soar with the Eagles when you work with a flock of Turkeys.
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