Fillet knife rope cut test

[georgela1]

I have been asked to deliver a knife to a guy in Sitka Alaska who plans on entering a fishing Tournament. (His e-mail to me below)

"I would like to purchase a fillet knife to send to Sitka Alaska for testing during an upcoming fishing tournament. I have freinds in this tournament and have seen the article on your knife in Blade."

While I am pleased with the knife performace, I decided to test the knife edge holding before I sent it so I would know it's limits.

I did nothing unusual to one of my current fillet knives. I wanted this to be a fair test. So I picked one out and started the basic rope cut test.

I have a 3 lay one inch rope (standard manilla (spell?)) , I use one lay which is 1/2 inch diameter. I make sure the rope is twisted tight and begin counting cuts from the finger guard up about 2 inches into the blade (That is the only cutting portion I used).

The knife cut extremely well for over 350 cuts, clean and completely thru. Around 425, I added a little more pressure and noticed a little less cleanness, but it went right thru to the wood board. I also noticed that every 10 cuts or so, the edge would regain it's aggressiveness and cut clean. Well, long story short................I made 1200 cuts, slightly frayed but went thru the rope completely to the board. It will not pop hair without some finagling and is a little rough on slicing paper. But, cutting and filleting fish...............it is up to the task. I am going to continue to cut and keep you posted.

I have attached a picture after the 1200 cuts.

So, in summary, I am ready to have it tested in Sitka, Alaska and I know I've done my best.

Humbly,
George    

[Ed Fowler]

George that is a great knife, but I know what it looks like, you need to post up a better picture.
Ed

[georgela1]

Not sure if this picture will be better

[Harry Mathews]

I would like to see a bigger picture of the whole knife. Something along the lines of an 800X600 pixel picture. I also would like to know some dimensions and materials. Enquiring minds want to know!

[georgela1]

OK here goes (I used Picasa 3 to edit the photo and keep it under 100K) hope it works.

The knife is a fillet knife design that I came up with using input from local fisherman who have used many fillet knives and filleted many large and small fish caught in the Florida waters. A long thin blade, not too thick with a slight curve at the front for leading the cut. This seems (I say seems because there are many excellent designs and I do NOT have the experience to say which is best). From the tests so far, this seems to be a good comprimise.

There where 3 main criteria I choose in the final design. (1) Blade material - Titanium, (2) Blade edge holding and (3) handle comfort.
First, I selected 6AL-4V Titanium for it's many benefits, including salt water corrosion resistance and basic hardness of 36-38 RC. It is a tough, flexable alloy mainly used in Aerospace applications. There are many other benefits of Titanium, but I will list them later. Next, I designed and patented a combination of geometry, beaver tooth design benefits and a method of applying an extremely hard coating. Finally, the handle has pleased many fisherman and can be seen in the picture below.

The overall knife is; 13.5 inches, the blade 8.5 inches. The width is .6250" tapered slightly to the point. The thickness varies from .080"-.093". I have used .060"-.075" for greater flexability.

I also have a 6" Fillet knife and am making a 12" Fillet knife. The knives are available on my website; http://www.titanknifetech.com/

I appreciate any and all comments, good or bad. I can only learn from others.

The knife edge is pretty well spent. It does however, become a little more aggressive as it is used, and continues to cut with a lot of effort, slightly ragged BUT..............it has not reached the point of being completely dead and unable to cut.

Thanks for the interest.

George

[georgela1]

Two pictures of other side of blade (untreated) edge.

[Harry Mathews]

Thanks George! I found the article this afternoon. Looks like you have a winner.

 I can't stand to make filet knives myself. When we do make one it is usually made of CPM S 30V. It works great but it doesn't sharpen itself.

 Charlie, the other half of Twin Blades, made one out of 1/16th inch D2 when we first started making knives. It was a stiff one with just enough flex to take the skin off a fish but not real flexible. It wasn't a steel that we would have normally chosen for a filet knife. We gave it to a guy to use for a while fishing off shore. We wanted him to try the shape and then we were going to make him one out of stainless. He won't give it back so we can make him a proper one and doesn't want to trade. We learned a valuable lesson with that knife. Never let a knife out of your shop that you aren't proud for it to be out there. 

[Israel]

Read the article about your fillet knife just a couple weeks ago. Very interesting concept.  I see in the second set of pics, the untreated side says to sharpen on that side. Is this the only difference in sharpening as compared to a standard blade? 

[georgela1]

Yes, that is the primary difference. The laser engraving was to help remind people who are used to sharpening both sides.

The treated side is bonded on a molecular level and is very hard. As the untreated side get used, it gradually wears the Titanium (blade material) and leaves only the treated edge exposed. So, when the edge wears to a point that in essence "rounds" the edge slightly, you only need a few strokes on any sharpening medium to bring the sharpness back.

Thanks for your question.

[gmusic]

Great test George! 

You had one heck of a pile of shavings after 1200 cuts!  Amazing knife.......................