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 on: May 23, 2017, 10:03:43 PM 
Started by Will - Last post by Will
So far I've been messing with 80CRV2, and I'm liking what I'm seeing so far.  I'm still refining my heat treat, but so far it's taken the place of straight 1084 for smaller stock removal and some forged knives.  Don't think it'll take the place of 52100, but a good alternative to 1084 or 1095 and so far outperforms the simple steels by a good margin.

So far my basic heat treat is to heat to 1525 and quench in 130-140 deg. fast quench, about 8 second oil.  Temper 2 times at 400 deg. for 2 hours each.  Comes out rite at 60 RC and is very tough.  I haven't had time or resources to do any more experiments, but has anyone tried triple quenching it in a slow oil?

I've looked all over the place and found very little heat treat info on it.


 on: May 23, 2017, 09:52:54 PM 
Started by Will - Last post by Will
A couple of hunters for sale.

First up, forged 52100 hunter, bronze guard, stabilized Hawaiian Mango spacer, stabilized curly Maple handle, waxed leather pouch sheath. Blade has 4 3/4" cutting edge, 9 3/4" overall length.

Second, forged 52100, 5 1/8" blade, flat ground with convex edge, 9 7/8" overall length, bronze guard, sheep horn spacer and buffalo handle. Waxed leather pouch sheath. Blade is etched to show quench line and grain.

Both are 350$ each, and come with a zippered storage pouch.  Free shipping in the CONUS.
Please email for more pics, or check out my website,

Thanks for looking,  Will

 on: May 21, 2017, 03:00:00 PM 
Started by Daniel Rohde (D-Vision) - Last post by Joe Calton
nice knife d!

I like how you swept the handle up, so that you could have a wider handle for more comfort, yet still get plenty of knuckle clearance.

the picture of the spine looks like the blade is sanmai? or is that just the picture, or my screen?

 on: May 21, 2017, 02:57:16 PM 
Started by mreich - Last post by Joe Calton
I can see where wet forging would really help, and that is if your hammer handle was loose in the head. just keep the hammer in a bucket of water next to the anvil......... :}

 on: May 21, 2017, 02:55:42 PM 
Started by danbot - Last post by Joe Calton
I sometimes wonder if the lack of guards on production knives has to do with the guards that are typically put on production knives. I mean look at the guard on a military style kbar.. thin, and all sharp corners. if that is the only experience that someone has ever had with a guard, then they likely wouldn't want one. and even as simple a guard as that takes the manufacturers more time and money to make than a knife without a guard. so take that idea and look at it over a long period of time from the manufacturers and buyers eyes:

--company make a knife with a guard. the predicted sales prices says that they cant spend the time to even round off all the corners of the guard, much less make it a nice comfy one.

-- if the knife sells ok it is lucky, since sales probably aren't that great, the company either doesn't make many of them, or cuts costs by reducing the amount of time that goes into the guard making it worse.

--since the guard is so uncomfortable, the few folks that buy it, tell their friends how bad the guard idea is, and since it is so bad, they would rather not have one, especially since knives with no guards are cheaper.

take this out over several decades, and it doesn't take long before the guard is a thing of the past.

 on: May 16, 2017, 07:03:30 AM 
Started by danbot - Last post by danbot
Thanks for the replies everyone.

I guess I was just kind of surprised by the lack of a finger guard on the majority of the knives I was looking at considering what a safety obsessed society we have become. Not that I would like the safety obsessed types* to be dictating knife design!! Most of them I would guess don't use knives for anything more than vegetable prep.

I did end up purchasing a fixed blade with a finger groove that is deep enough to be considered a guard. But again, many knives with finger notches have the notches too shallow for my liking from a safety point of view.

* I'm not against "safety" obviously, I just think it can be taken WAY too far sometimes.

 on: May 15, 2017, 09:12:23 AM 
Started by danbot - Last post by RocketBoy
I think the reason many knives these day don't have 'guards' is it has to do primarily with perceived use. The 'BushCraft' community puts a premium on the 'carving' ability for their knives. A 'guard' interferes with the ability to use some of the typical carving grips. In fact, their insistence on being able to carve in the field pretty much drives the entire BushCraft knife design. Scandi-grind, no guard, etc.

My field-craft training goes back to my Boy Scout and Military survival training. I don't remember doing a lot of 'carving', beyond tent pegs. Obviously, things have changed in the past few years. Be warned, any criticism of the BushCraft knife design will result in a swift rebuttal by the BushCrafters. They'll evoke names like Mors Kochanski and Ray Mears as if calling upon Zeus and Hera on Mount Olympus.

Like Ed, I also have a friend who now has limited use of the of his fingers on his right hand because it slipped down on a knife with no guard field dressing a Deer. The Tendon damage was permanent.

I do have two 'BushCraft style' knives that have no guard. And yes, they make me nervous to use.

I hope this helps.


 on: May 11, 2017, 11:36:44 AM 
Started by mreich - Last post by mreich
Thank you both, much appreciated.  Smiley

 on: May 04, 2017, 09:31:42 PM 
Started by Daniel Rohde (D-Vision) - Last post by Will
Beautiful, nice and slim.  Bet they'd go through a chicken pretty quick!

 on: May 04, 2017, 09:30:45 PM 
Started by mreich - Last post by Will
The only time I do it is at certain stages while forging damascus, primarily when I want to blow the scale off just before folding.  It's a useful technique, but like everything else, there is a time and place for it, I never do it when forging mono steels as the temp is too low and what scale there is is flaking off nicely as is.

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